Soundproof Walls

How to soundproof a room?

so i was looking at this sound proof foam, and i have to say i didn't expect to be this expensive, im trying to sound proof my game room i build, but is there any way to get cheaper foam thats not $200 to $500? or is there a different way that will work for watching high quality movies, suck the noise

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1. Soundproofing Windows, Ceilings and Floors Step 1: Install double- or triple-hung vinyl-framed windows in new construction, or replace old windows with upgraded units in existing rooms. Step 2: Or make "plugs"–—custom-fit coverings the size of the window, made from one of the manufactured products described above. You can make these yourself by purchasing the material and cutting it to fit. Step 3: Alternatively, purchase stylish sound-deadening drapes. These are more expensive than window plugs but much more pleasing to the eye. Step 4: Soundproof ceilings by applying sound-deadening matting (as described above) or hanging a suspended acoustic tile ceiling; extra sound dampening can be obtained by rolling out batts of thick fiberglass insulation on top of the suspended ceiling. Step 5: Apply sound-deadening mats to upstairs floors to cut down on noise levels. These can be applied under carpeting and often have padding built in.
2. walls and ceilings can be sound proof with a double layer of half inch sheetrock with a 3 quarter inch space between the two done by screwing 1x3 strapping to the first unfinished layer of rock creating a space for the sound to become trapped
3. You don't need expensive foam. That foam is for deadening echoes inside a sound studio, not sound proofing. Sound happens because of air movement. What causes that movement in another room is the solids that connect the two rooms vibrate. Sound travels very poorly from air source to air source. You need to separate the solid material from room to room. In a wall that means either a double wall, which is two thin parallel walls with less than a inch between them or a staggered stud wall. Where you have a 2x8 for the top and bottom plates, and use 2 sets of 2x4s for studs. One set for either side of the 2x8. Either way fill the wall with loose insulation, it will deaden the sound that tries to move through the air inside the wall. Use at least a 1/2 thick Sheetrock on the walls. For the ceilings, if this is a down stairs room, you need to evaluate the holes in the ceiling first. If you have forced air vents, and ducts, then you need the expensive professional materials for covering the ducts, and only those points or runs. Just doing that will hugely improve sound resistance. Most flooring material is very good at killing sound. It is the air vents that are most of the problem. If it weren't for the vents, you wouldn't hear more than a murmur from a loud voice in a room above you with no additional sound proofing. To further sound proof take either 1x3 strips or resilient steel channels(preferred method) across the ceiling, then apply a layer of Sheetrock. Fill the void with cheap loose insulation. If you can hear a murmur from normal voices from upstairs at this point, then you have a large hole such as an air vent that you didn't handle specially.
4. To get what you want you will have to lay out a few bucks on this project. One method you can do is rent the a machine for applying blow-in insulation and you can find them at most lumberyards, contractor rental centers, or even where you purchase insulation. You will have to cut small holes in the drywall near the ceiling in between the wall studs and fill the space between the drywall with insulation . Patch and refinish the cuts you made in the drywall. You can purchase expandable foam in commercial size containers. You will still have to cut small holes in the drywall as stated in the first method above along with patch and refinish. The following will provide the best soundproofing. You can also use Rubber Floor Covering and glue them or staple them on the walls to provide a sound barrier - they come in puzzle like squares - They come in different colors and texture. See for example: http://www.greatmats.com/products/decor.html Most hardware stores have them and usually have them for kids play room but work great for what you need. To get really good soundproofing you will need to use acoustical foam tiles or rubber insulations. This type of material works best to absorb sound and keep it from reverberating back into the room unlike insulation or foam Loose fiberglass blow in insulation runs about $0.75 per square ft Foam insulation runs about $2.95 per square ft Puzzle Mats run from $3.95 per square ft You can look up puzzle mats on Google or yahoo and find product and prices from low to high.
5. I had a soundproofed garage/music studio. In it was acoustic ceiling tile, hung from the rafters, with rubber bushings at all connection points to cut down on vibrations (think if the way the parts of a nuke sub are connected). In the attic was about a foot think of regular insulation, blown in, but any type will work, just need a lot of it. The walls were done similar to the ceiling, with acoustic tile, hung in a suspended manner, with plenty of insulation behind them. All wall and ceiling outlets were cut to fit around the tiling, and I took small amounts of insulation, put it in a ziploc bag, and stuffed in the recessed area where the outlets were when not in use. The key I think to making it really soundproof was the irregular angles I hung the tiling at. It deflected the noise into the other parts of the room that absorbed it. A good thick plush carpet on the floor also absorbs the sound waves as well. Finish it off with a insulated piece of acoustic tile attached to the door, preferably a well insulated exterior door. For added protection I also fashioned a padded inner "screen" type door, giving another barrier for sound not to escape thru. Hope this helps, good luck with your project!
6. You can install sound batting in the walls also double layers of drywall can help considerably when dampening sound.